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After more than 25 years of serving authentic Chicago-style fare, Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago closed its doors at 1859 Winchester Road on Wednesday, Nov. 26, the day before Thanksgiving.

“The reason I haven’t closed (before now) is because it’s a passion,” said Marlon Becton, better known as Rusty. “And I should have expanded or moved from here (by now), but if you’re going to point your finger, point it at yourself first.”

But this isn’t the end of the journey for what may have been Memphis’ most authentic Chicago-style restaurant; it’s just one chapter’s conclusion in a story that began when Memphis had six area shopping malls and the trolley lines were still new.

A family emergency brought Becton to Memphis from Chicago back in 1998. Doctors had said his brother likely wouldn’t make it through the night, so Becton immediately hit the road and drove approximately eight hours directly to what is now the Regional Medical Center at Memphis.

The Italian beef sandwich at Mr. Rusty's is adorned with hot and spicy giardiniera, the pickled vegetables. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)

For four months, Becton lived in the French Quarter Inn in Overton Square. As his brother made a miraculous recovery, Becton fell in love with one of the nurses responsible for his care. He married her and made Memphis his home. But opening a restaurant wasn’t on Becton’s radar — yet.

“I cooked all my life,” he said. “But my first business (in Memphis) was a cellphone and pager store.”

Becton opened Windy City Communications and operated several stores in the area, selling CDs and the latest comms tech of the day. Customers knew he was from Chicago and returned home often, so they began placing Chicago food orders through him.

Marlon Becton, better known as Rusty, was the owner of Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago. (Ellen Chamberlain/The Daily Memphian)

Becton said he remembers bringing back as many as 50 Italian beef sandwiches for customers from Chicago using a large cooler. Instead of opening the store for customers wanting to purchase beats, he had folks in line waiting to buy beef.

After some time, Becton began to apprentice in an authentic Italian shop on his trips home to Chicago. 

“I was driving home from the (Southland) mall and rode past here and the building said ‘Chicago’ on it,” Becton said, recalling the first time he saw the restaurant that would become his home away from home for a quarter of a century. “I said, ‘Let me stop in here and see.’ Then I bought (the business).”

A week later the previous occupant was out and Mr. Rusty’s was in, selling authentic Chicago hot dogs with mustard, bright green relish, onions, sliced tomatoes, peppers, a pickle spear and celery salt; Italian beef, and sausage sandwiches.

“The rest is history,” Becton said.

Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago served Chicago-style fare. (Ellen Chamberlain/The Daily Memphian)

On the restaurant’s final day of service, people poured in to say goodbye or even try the Chicago-style food for the first time. 

“My girlfriend came here yesterday; she’s a fan,” said Diane Parks of Cordova, a Chicago native who had just learned about the restaurant through a friend. “My daughter has been here 17 years, and I’ve been here 10. And we hadn’t found anything close to the food back home. I asked her, ‘Are you sure?’ She said, ‘I promise.’”

Parks and her daughter Wendy Turner were midway through cooking their family’s Thanksgiving feast when they got word Mr. Rusty’s was closing. Once the dressing was in the oven and the potatoes were boiled for the potato salad, they drove from Cordova to check out the food they’d heard so much about.

Becton said he’s happy people are still discovering him, especially because this isn’t exactly the end of Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago.

As of Dec. 1, Becton has been operating out of Cheers Restaurant and Bar in Horn Lake during the day while the eatery is closed. He’ll be open later than he was in Memphis and is adding Saturdays to his service.

Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago closed its doors at 1859 Winchester Road on Wednesday, Nov. 26. (Ellen Chamberlain/THe Daily Memphian)

“It’ll be a treat when we go (to Horn Lake),” Turner said. 

Becton says his time in Horn Lake will allow him to focus on his other goal, a “grand return” when he’ll be able to open a new restaurant in Memphis. 

“I’ve got to cross all my T’s and dot all my I’s,” he said. “Like it says on that paper, I’m waiting for my grand return because when I come back it’ll be better and bigger.”

Mr. Rusty’s is open inside Cheers Restaurant and Bar, 6541 U.S. 51 N., Mondays-Saturdays 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m.

This week on the Memphis food scene

If you hadn’t noticed (and are living under a rock), Jennifer Chandler is back. Check out “The AM/DM” to hear her chat with Editorial Director Mary Cashiola about her return and new contributions, such as the recipe for Feast & Graze’s hot-honey goat dip.

In another Recipe Exchange, Mane Street Seasonings owner Moreno McCalpin teaches us how to make his Mane Street OG Cornbread.

Memphis native Moreno McCalpin has a Mane Street Seasonings line. (Courtesy Mane Street Seasonings)

Sophia Surrett has details about the latest restaurant openings, closures and expansions in Food Files, including Raising Cane’s new proposed location. She also talked with Shayne Diaz about Kuya, the new Filipino restaurant coming to South Main.

This week, we explore what to order at The Lobbyist, and it’s equal parts art and taste explosion.

In “Sound Bites,” Holly Whitfield introduces us to Theresa Schuenke, the executive chef at Fawn, and has lots of fun giggling with yours truly about all things food.

This week’s $15 Deal explores the huge portions and piping hot popcorn crawfish at Bayou Bar & Grill.

Our latest dining guide explores just about every single eatery in Southaven’s Silo Square, letting you know what’s available for sips, snacks and more.

The Bagel Nook is located in in Silo Square. (Patrick Lantrip/The Daily Memphian)

Michael Waddell explores the behind-the-scenes business moves that could lead be leading to a quiet comeback for Belly Acres.

Abigail Warren lets us know where Nashville-based Hattie B’s Hot Chicken may next set up shop in Memphis.

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